Free Beginner’s Guide To Soapmaking: Melt and Pour

We are going back to the basics! Here is a free beginner’s guide to the art of Melt and Pour soapmaking that includes a step-by-step guide through a beginner’s melt and pour project in this part. Interested in cold process soap? Click here for a free comprehensive guide to Cold Process soapmaking. And, bonus, downloadable PDFs make these guides a handy take-anywhere tool.

Free Beginner's Guide to Soapmaking

What’s the difference between Melt & Pour (M&P) and Cold Process (CP) soap? Melt and Pour (M&P or MP) utilizes a pre-made base that is ready to use as is (literally, you could take the melt and pour block, as-is, get in the shower and lather away!). But this block of unassuming plain soap is waiting for your personal touch to transform into something amazing. Cold Process soap is made by mixing or saponifing lye and oil and the resulting chemical reaction is soap. With M&P base – the saponification and waiting step has been done for you while with CP, you do it yourself. It’s similar to using a cake mix (melt and pour) versus from scratch (cold process).

MELT AND POUR: Melt and pour soapmaking is the process of melting a preexisting soap base, most often adding color and fragrance or essential oil, then pouring the soap base into a mold. Once fully hardened, the result is a bar that is able to be used right away. Benefits of melt and pour soap include not having to handle lye, the wide variety of color and fragrance options available, kid friendly process, and no curing time. One downfall is that because of the additives in melt and pour to make it easily re-meltable and the lack of curing time, melt and pour soap does not last quite as long in the shower as cold process can. Because melt and pour soap is already made and the process is relatively easy, users are able to focus on the design of the soap. Most novelty soaps are made using MP techniques.

VOCABULARY:

Soap base: The actual melt and pour itself. Melt and pour in it’s original, uncolored state is clear. Many vendors offer an opaque or white base option as well, which is simply clear base with white colorant (titanium dioxide) already added for you. Other popular additives include Goat Milk and Shea Butter. Keep in mind that additives can also affect the color of the soap base; for example, Goat Milk soap base tends to have an opaque ivory color, where an Aloe or Hemp base may be clear but with a greenish tint and a Honey base may have a clear but dark yellow appearance. Additionally, the base color will affect any additional colorant you wish to add to the soap. Any color added to a white or opaque base will be pastel, and colors added to the greenish or yellowish bases mentioned will be affected by the color of the base as well.

Glycerin: A natural bi-product of the saponification process, found in both MP and CP soaps. Glycerin is found in a particularly high percentage in MP soap, and MP soap bases may also be found under the name glycerin soap base. Glycerin is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture. It’s humectant properties in soap contribute to a super moisturizing and skin-loving bar. Most commercial soaps have had the glycerin (and thus all of its properties) removed, which may be why many people prefer melt and pour or cold process soaps to commercial soaps.

Fragrance: The product you scent your soap with, this can either be a fragrance oil (synthetic) or all natural (essential oil). Take care to only use soap or skin safe fragrances. Do not use potpourri, craft or candle fragrances as they have not gone through the same safety testing. Suggested usage rate for fragrance or essential oils in melt and pour soap is .25 ounces of fragrance or essential oil per pound of soap. Please read through all the safety and warning instructions from your vendor with essential oils. Some of them, like Peppermint or Spearmint, have a ‘cooling’ sensation when used in soap (and on nether regions) and others can warm up, like Clove or Cinnamon.

Colorants: This is the medium you use to get color in your soap. There are many options to color your soap, not all of them cosmetic grade. For example, while crayons and RIT dyes are technically ‘non-toxic’ they have not been tested nor approved for use in soap or cosmetic products. You only want to use specially designated colorants for use in your soap. Common colorants include Oxides and Pigments, Liquid Colorants, LabColors, Color Blocks, Micas and Clays. Note: the clays used for soap are not the same as used in pottery. They have been purified to a higher grade than pottery clays. The term “non-bleeding’ is often used with regards to colorants. Non-bleeding simply means the color will not migrate or bleed into other parts of your soap. For more information on non-bleeding, click here.

Molds: This is what you will pour your soap into. You can use any container that is fully cleaned and has ‘give’. Example: a plastic tupperware would work; a glass bowl would not. You need to be able to release the soap from the mold easily by pulling gently on the side of the mold. Common molds used in melt and pour are Heavy Duty Molds, Milky Way molds and Silicone molds.

SAFETY: When soap bases are melted, they are generally over 120 degrees, which turns the soap into a scalding hot liquid burning hazard. Be extremely careful about only soaping with heat safe containers and equipment. If you soap with children around, they should be old enough to hold their own containers and should always have an adult with them during the soapmaking process. Hot soap can hurt if dripped or splashed on skin.

Layered Soap Project

EQUIPMENT: Pyrex or other heat-resistant containers, spoon, Silicone Loaf Mold

Plumeria MP

RECIPE: Plumeria Layered Soap

40 oz. Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base

15 oz. White Melt and Pour Base

Diluted Tropical Pink LabColor

Diluted Tropical Orange LabColor

Super Pearly White Mica

1.1 oz. Plumeria Fragrance Oil

Soap Chunks and Fragrance

STEP ONE: Cut the melt and pour soap base into (approximately) 1 inch chunks. Keep the white soap base and clear soap base separate.

Cutting Soap

Ingredients

STEP TWO: Melt the clear soap base in the microwave on 30 second bursts, stirring between bursts, until the base has fully melted.

STEP THREE: Add 2 heaping mini-scoops of Super Pearly White Mica to the melted clear soap base and mix well. The Super Pearly White mica helps to give the soap base a nice shimmer, which adds dimension to the colors we’ll add in the next couple of steps. Use Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol to disperse any mica clumps, they usually float to the top.

STEP FOUR: Add 0.8 oz Plumeria Fragrance Oil and stir until incorporated. Split the soap base into two equal parts, each weighing 20 ounces.

Adding Fragrance

STEP FIVE: To one 20 ounce portion, add 3 mL Diluted Tropical Pink LabColor and mix well. To the second 20 ounce portion, add 5 mL Diluted Tropical Orange LabColor and mix well.

Adding LabColor

STEP SIX: For a super even look, I measured out the soap amounts for each layer. If you’d like a more uniform look, split the Orange and Pink colored soap bases into two portions, each weighing 10 ounces. For a more organic look, no need to split the batches, just eyeball the layers.

STEP SEVEN: Pour the first layer of Pink soap base into the mold, spray with alcohol to pop any bubbles on the surface, and allow to harden.

Pour first layer of soap

STEP EIGHT: Check the temperature of the orange soap. If the orange soap is 125 degrees or below, spray the pink layer with alcohol again, which will help the layers to stick together. Pour the first layer of orange soap. Spray again with alcohol to pop those bubbles and allow to harden. TIP: When pouring layers, the temperature is important; pouring too hot can result in the first layer melting, which can result in an undesired effect. The temperature guidelines in this tutorial are designed to be used with the Bramble Berry ‘House’ melt and pour bases. Other bases may melt and successfully do layers at different temperatures.

Spray with alcohol

STEP NINE: Heat the White Melt and Pour Soap Base in a heat-safe container on 30 second bursts in the microwave until fully melted. Add 2 heaping mini-scoops of Super Pearly White Mica and 0.3 oz Plumeria Fragrance Oil and mix well. Adding mica to an opaque base will add just the right amount shimmer, making the white extra special. Keep in mind that any color added to a white or opaque base will result in a pastel version of that color!

Adding Mica

STEP TEN: Once the white soap base has reached a cool enough temperature, spray the orange layer with alcohol and pour the melted white soap base. Spray again with alcohol and allow to harden. Repeat with another orange layer next, and finish it off with a final pink layer, being sure to check the temperature of the melted soap before pouring the layer.

Poured soap

STEP ELEVEN: Allow to harden for a few hours. Unmold and cut.

Unmolded uncut soap

Check out some of our favorite Melt and Pour recipes!

Super Bouncy Balls || Faux Swirl Cubes || Easter Duckies || Color Block Rainbow

Click here for a printable PDF of this tutorial.

108 Responses to “Free Beginner’s Guide To Soapmaking: Melt and Pour”

  1. Michelle says:

    I love this melt and pour layered project!! Gorgeous…kinda like a sunset : )

  2. Luciefer says:

    I am French and I love your blog I visit regularly. We share the passion of soap: o) This is another great article!

  3. Nickie says:

    I really like this, plumeria is one of my favorites! The colors go well w/ the fragrance & add the mica to it…WOW, a shimmery flower lol
    I cant wait to hear the bramblebump news!!! :)

    ~Nickie~

  4. Tracy/Aiya says:

    Hi! I just wanted to say I love the new features on the Brambleberry shop side bar (paypal and shipping estimator). Or at least I think they are new! I just now saw them and thought sweetttttttttt.

    Thank you for the awesome tutorial as well!!

    Tracy/Aiya

  5. Anita says:

    I am so new in Soaping and I love your site,blog and youtube etc. So inspirational and wonderful.
    I only wish i was in the US so i can just order my supplies as soon as I’ve seen your project to order.

  6. Kelly says:

    The soap looks awesome,I like the colors It makes me feel like I should take a vacation.

    I was woundering about use goat milk for layers, has anyone tryed goatmilk.
    I love the goatmilk, if any one has any ideas?

  7. Kelly says:

    I am sorry I didnt make my self clear on what goatmilk. I use melt and pour soap. I have a special needs child and I am scared about using lye in the house and in the grauge because of my cats and my dog, but I meant melt and pour goatmilk.
    Thank you.

  8. Meagan says:

    Love the look of layered m&p, but some of my layers always want to peel apart. What am I doing wrong? I always spritz with alcohol between layers.

    • Good morning, Meagan!

      I know how frustrating that can be. Typically we like to pour our layers at 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit and spray liberally between our layers. Could you tell me a little bit more about your recipe and I can defintley help you troubleshoot. =)

      -Becky with Bramble Berry

  9. Meagan says:

    Well after watching some of her videos, I remembered that I had put that one in the fridge to get it to set up faster.. lesson learned. Plus, I didn’t know to use the same brand for each project.
    It’s usually crafter’s choice clear.
    Today, I had the same problem when trying to make a jelly roll. Will I always see layers peeling apart if the first layer is cooled?

  10. Karen says:

    I have a question for you. I recently started making soaps with the goats milk melt and pour and sell at craft shows. I personally like this soap, but need to find a way to address a few questions I get at shows. I have people wanting something for sensitive skin and for those who can’t tolerate ‘store bought soap” The soap I am using do you feel would be good for sensitive skin and how does it compare to “store bought” brands. I want people to try my soap but don’t know how they will react so I tell them each person is different , but I would like to beable to give a general idea for them about sensitivity. and ect. Thanks karen

  11. Teresa D says:

    Hi Becky- quick question…if the orange and pink-colored soap for the 2nd layers has started to set up before I’m ready to add it to the mold can I heat it up for a few more seconds in the microwave or will that distort the fragrance/color? I tried my first little melt & pour expirement today (just an easy 2-color bar w/ an embed) & noticed a thin “skin ” starting to form on my unpoured soap. I was able to just give it a stir, but wondered whether I could have zapped it in the microwave.

    Thanks!

  12. Karen says:

    I am using the melt and pour goats milk soap. I was wanting to know if I can add goats milk powdeer to the goats milk melt and pour soap base. If, so how much can I add per pound and can I mix it directly into the melted soap base. I don’t want to change the lathering or the hardness of the finished product as I know adding additives can change the product, but would like to have a more milk rich soap. Thanks for any help! Love your site! Karen

  13. Jane says:

    I’m sorry if this sounds like a really stupid question, but I live in a metric country, and so am not naturally fluent in your measurements… are these oz measurements volume (ie fluid ounces) or weight? Or is the base one and the fragrance oil another? Cheers,
    Jane

    • Hi Jane!

      Not a stupid question at all. I promise you that if you have a question, someone else has had the same one. =) All of the measurements that you will find on the Soap Queen blog (unless otherwise notated)are by weight. This includes the bases, the fragrance oils, the butters, the oils and anything else you could possibly think of. I hope this helps! And don’t hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

      -Becky with Bramble Berry

      P.S. For up-to-the date news and questions answered, you can join us at Bramble Berry’s Facebook page.

      https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry

      We hope to see you there!

  14. Tina says:

    I’m a super newbie M&P soap maker and want to thank you (all staff involved) for posting these tutorials as well as the YouTube videos. I’ve been ‘attending’ Soap Queen school the past week, lol. My supplies are coming in the mail all this week and I’m really excited to get started, but am also enjoying the learning process.

  15. Karen says:

    I have a question. I want to use a melt and pour soap and would like to come up with something for guys who have dirty greasy hands. I want to use pumice in it, but what would be good for grease? Thanks for your help. Karen

  16. Sally says:

    Hi. I used the M & P clear base and something odd happened. All of the soap developed a crystal-like covering. The crystals wiped off but the soap is rather slimey feeling. Is it still ok to use? Can you tell me why it happened? I did leave the soap out uncovered – is this why it happened? Do I need to wrap the soap as soon as it comes out of the mold?

    Thanks so much for your help.
    Sally

    • Good morning, Sally!

      It sounds like you are experiencing what we call glycerin dew or sweating. This happens in Melt & Pour Bases that are exposed to the air. The glycerin in the soaps acts a humectant and actually draws moisture to the soap causing the crystal-like covering. You can check out more about this phenomenon in this blog post that Anne-Marie wrote a few years ago:

      Augh! What’s THAT All Over My Soap?!: http://www.soapqueen.com/personal-ramblings/augh-whats-that-all-over-my-soap-2/

      The best way to prevent your soaps from sweating or getting glycerin dew is to make sure you wrap them in an airtight packaging as soon as they have hardened. You can also try out our low-sweat M&P bases that act more like CP soaps and can be left out without getting glycerin dew or sweating. You can find them here:

      LCP Clear Melt And Pour Soap: http://www.brambleberry.com/LCP-Clear-Melt-And-Pour-Soap-P4383.aspx

      LCP White Melt And Pour Soap: http://www.brambleberry.com/LCP-White-Melt-And-Pour-Soap-P3190.aspx

      I hope this helps! Let me know if there is anything else I can do for you. =)

      -Becky with Bramble Berry

      • Sally says:

        Thank you so much! That explains everything. I live in a humid area, put the soap in the freezer to harden and left it out on the counter unwrapped. I made all the mistakes! Now I understand how to do it properly,

        Thanks again,
        Sally

      • Lin says:

        This crystallizing also happened to me after using the LCP White M&P soap and leaving the soap in the shower. Could I have gotten the wrong base or is there still a chance this could happen with the LCP base?

        • Amanda says:

          Hi Lin!

          While it’s unlikely that sweating will happen with LCP bases, it’s certainly still possible, especially when it is stored in a humid, hot area (like the shower). Luckily it does not effect the quality of the soap at all!

          -Amanda

  17. [...] For helpful Soap making hints, click here. [...]

  18. Sherrie says:

    This is such a pretty project. I would like to try it with my kids. I am confused about diluting the lab colors. How do I do this? Must distilled water be used? We have well water. How much water is used per ml?

    • Good morning, Sherrie!

      You will just love this project — especially using the bright and vibrant LabColors. To dilute your LabColors, you will need distilled water, your LabColor of choice, a preservative and an extra bottle. The best part (in my opinion), about LabColors is that you can get a full 8 ounces out of a 10 mL bottle!

      For detailed instructions on how to dilute your LabColors, here is a blog post that Anne-Marie wrote a few years ago that I think could really help out:

      Diluting Bramble Berry LabColors: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/diluting-bramble-berry-labcolors/

      We always suggest using distilled water, because if you use anything else, you do run the chance of microbes and bacteria being in your LabColor — and you wouldn’t want that!

      Let me know if you have any other questions. :)
      -Becky with Bramble Berry

  19. Mary says:

    I typically make cold process soap, but recently had an order for some soaps for wedding favors. I used fragrance oil at the same level I do for cold process.
    In other words, 1 oz per pound. I should have done my homework because that is way too much. The soaps are greasy feeling. Will this eventually absorb into the soap, or do I need to scrap this and start over?

    • Hi Mary!

      Could you tell me a little bit more about this greasy feeling? Sometimes, if you are in a humid area, your melt and pour soaps can begin to sweat and feel a bit greasy. When we make melt and pour soap, our general rule-of-thumb is .25 ounces of fragrance oil per pound of soap, and you can always use the Fragrance Calculator for a more precise measurement. If you are finding that your soaps are too ‘greasy’, I would try to dry them out either using a fan or dehumidifier. As soon as they are dry, wrap them up completely in plastic wrap to prevent any sweating or glycerin dew. I hope this helps! :)

      -Becky with Bramble Berry

      Fragrance Calculator: http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx

  20. Denise says:

    Can I use MP ingredients in my CP recipe?

  21. Akeisha says:

    How do I make my melt and pour more sudsy?

  22. Mimi Comerford says:

    I have just completed my first loaf mold and love it. My biggest challenge was keeping the soap bases at the right temperature. It always seemed like when I needed to pour the next layer my colored soap had gotten too cold and started to harden or I had to reheat it and then it was too hot to pour… Any tips for that? Would it help to keep it on a hot plate?

    • Hi Mimi!

      We are so excited that you’ve started making handmade soap and can’t wait to hear more about your adventures. The best thing about melt and pour soap is that if your soap that is waiting to be pour gets hard or cooler, you can just pop it in the microwave to reheat it and pour when you are ready! It is totally okay to reheat it as many times as you would like to get it ready to pour, but just remember to put it on 30-second (or smaller) bursts in the microwave so it doesn’t get too hot! =)

      -Becky with Bramble Berry

  23. Sally says:

    Hi Becky,

    You gave me good advice before and now I’m back for more. I live on the coast so have to deal with a lot of humidity. I’ve been wrapping my M&P soap in shrink wrap leaving the ends open so you can smell the soap. Even with a small opening the soap is developing crystals. What do you recommend as the best way to wrap the soap to prevent the crystals from forming yet still allow the scent to come through?

    Thanks,
    Sally

  24. Way up says:

    Thanks once again.
    Sally

  25. […] Beginner’s Guide To Melt & Pour Soap Making […]

  26. Reham says:

    Hi sally
    I was make soap but when i put the fragrance the oil float up
    What can i do ???
    Thanks

  27. Diane says:

    This was so informative-thanks for sharing.

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Diane!

      I’m so glad you enjoyed this blog post! If you give melt and pour a try, we would love to see it on our Facebook page! :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  28. Asawar Sajid says:

    Thanks for your recipes! We are experimenting on soaps and the layering process! We visit the website daily and watch the tutorials on how to perfect the soap recipes. We hope you can visit our website once the launch happens. Cheers!

  29. Marva says:

    I made my first batch of melt snd pour soap recently. I notice that after a couple hours out of the mold, the soap became frosty with a coatingbof what looked like bubbles. Is this normal. If not, how do I prevent this?

    Marva

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Marva!

      It is normal to experience bubbles on the top of your melt and pour. To avoid this, after you have poured your soap into the mold, spray with a fine mist bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol. This will break up any bubbles on top if the soap. We also recommend covering your melt and pour with plastic wrap to avoid the melt and pour from sweating due to the glycerin.

      I hope this helps! :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  30. Sue says:

    I enjoyed this post on melt and pour. I was curious if anyone had information for combining melt and pour with cold process. I am new to cold process but have made several batches. Recently I purchased a couple of bars of soap- one had a line of glycerin soap in between 2 layers of cold process and the other the glycerin was swirled with the cold process. I have looked everywhere online and cannot find out how to do this. Does anyone have suggestions? Thank you!!

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Sue!

      There are definitely ways to combine melt and pour with cold process techniques. Melt and Pour is perfect for adding embeds into cold process, which you can see in these two projects!

      Cold Process Planets in a Melt and Pour Galaxy:
      http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/melt-and-pour-soap/otion-repost-planet-soap/

      Cold Process with a Twist:
      http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/cold-process-with-a-twist/

      If you are looking to add a line of melt and pour between two layers of cold process, while we have never tried it, it can certainly be done! I would make one layer of cold process, let it harden thoroughly in the mold, pour melt and pour on top, let it harden, and then pour another layer of cold process on top. In between the layers, I would recommend spraying with isopropyl alcohol, to help the layers stick to each other. Swirling the melt and pour would be a little trickier. Again this is something we haven’t tried (but maybe need to!) but I could see temperatures being an issue, and the rate at which they harden. If you try it, let us know how it goes :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  31. Vimax Asli says:

    wow,,, this cool boss can create their own experiments at home
    thank you for posting a very amazing once

  32. Carmen says:

    Hi there!

    So quick question: I tried doing layers the other day and the soaps just mixed together. I know you say to wait till it’s at 120° but how hard should the first layer be before pouring the second layer? Or should letting the second layer cool help?

    Thanks!

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Carmen!

      Layers can be a little tricky sometimes :). I definitely recommend letting the first layer cool a bit, that way it can support the second layer without the layer breaking through. A few minutes should do the trick.

      You may find this Soap Queen Tv video helpful!

      Soap Queen Tv: Basic Layers:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oyh1Bf3Gxo

      I hope that helps!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  33. Rachel says:

    I have a question about weighing out bases…If I want to melt down a large quantity in a presto pot then measure it out for individual projects, will the weight still be accurate? For example, if I need 2oz of hardened melt and pour, will 2oz of melted liquid melt and pour base weigh the same?

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Rachel!

      You’re correct, if you melt down a certain amount, it will weight the same once it is melted, and will still weigh the same once it hardens again :) I hope this helps!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  34. Rebecca says:

    Still reading and studying soap making for personal use and started gathering my supplies.i grow papayas and would like to see a recipe with papaya oil or papaya juice. Thanks

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Rebecca!

      I’m so glad that you’re interested in making soap, it’s a lot of fun. If you’re interested in melt and pour specifically, I would not recommend adding juice, or additional oil to the base. The bases are already made with luxurious oils and butters. The more you add to the base, the more the consistency will change. The lather will start to decrease or you could end up with a softer bar of soap.

      If you are interested in making cold process soap, using juice could result in a soap volcano because of the additional sugar. You can see an example of a soap volcano here!

      Coconut Milk Soap Volcano:
      http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/coconut-milk-soap-volcano-2/

      If you have any more questions, we are happy to help :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  35. Andaluza says:

    Hi Amanda, if I use a melt&pour base to make my soaps, can I still call them handmade? I am wondering if handmade is an appropriate term to put on the soap labels.

    Thanks!

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Andaluza!

      I think so! While the base is premade, you certainly put your own spin on it by adding color, fragrance and personality! :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  36. Terah says:

    Hi! I had a quick question… Whenever I make clear glycerin soap (life of the party soap base)it always turns out cloudy. I’m very careful not to boil it or heat it up to the point of near-boiling. How did you guys get it so clear? I like to make it see through so that I can put things in the clear soap. Please help!

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Terah!

      Unfortunately, while there are a few small things you can do like watching temperatures closely, clear melt and pour is never totally clear. The cloudiness is the nature of the product :). But, there is a technique called “blueing” that you may find helpful!

      “Blueing” refers to adding blue liquid colorant to the soap base to take away some of the yellowness. You can see an example if this in our Emebedding Soap Queen TV video (around 2:40). It helps the soap to look more like water!

      Embedding Melt and Pour Soap:
      http://vimeo.com/4637102

      I hope this helps! :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

      • Terah says:

        Hi! Thanks for your quick reply! What has me stumped is that when I have made my soap in the past it has been crystal-clear. Now, it is completely cloudy, much cloudier than the pink and orange soap you made in the tutorial. Could it be that my soap is old? It’s about 2 years old. Also, would it help if I put the microwave power level on low?
        I’ll definitely try the blueing technique though! Thanks!

        • Hi Terah,
          That is very possible! We generally recommend soaping with our melt & pour bases within 12 months of purchase. It would definitely help if you put it on a low heat too! It may not necessarily help with the clarity, but it will ensure your soap doesn’t burn!

  37. Terah says:

    Hi Kirsten, thanks for the advice! I have a new melt and pour soap brick coming in the mail so we’ll see if that makes a difference. Thanks so much for helping and I love your site and tutorials! I just happened to stumble across it and now I’m hooked!

  38. Erin says:

    Hi! I have been testing some different scents, colorants, techniques, etc. in small batches. I have been using about 4oz of base at any given time to test my ideas. What I’m finding is that my base is cooling way too quickly. For example, even just stirring in my extra oils, fragrances and colorants seems to cool the soap enough that I have to re-melt. Is this just because I’m using such small quantities, or am I not heating the base enough in the first place?

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Erin!

      Because you are working with such small quantities, that’s exactly why it is cooling quite quickly :). Melt and pour cools relatively quickly anyway, but when it’s in a small amount, this process speeds up. You may want to try heating up your additional oils as well, that way their temperatures do not cool the melt and pour :) I hope this helps!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  39. Jon says:

    Is there a difference (from a natural standpoint) between the cold process soap I make and the MP bulk I purchase from Bramble berry. I read the ingredients in the MP and read sodium, lauric acid, EDTA etc. same stuff you read on the label of “Zest” or “Irish Spring” packaging. In my cold process I use only oils and lye. I would prefer to make my soap MP because it is so much easier but I want a soap as close to 100% natural as possible . I would love to hear some feedback.
    Thank
    Jon

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Jon!

      From a natural standpoint, the cold process soap you make would be more natural (in general) than the Melt and Pour Bulk Bases. While the bulk bases are great for the skin, they do contain less natural products than cold process soap, or the premium bases. The main difference between these two bases is the bulk bases use SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) which is a synthetic product to increase lather. The premium bases relay on natural oils to produce lather. If you are wanting to use melt and pour, I would recommend using a base in the category below :)

      Bramble Berry Premium Bases:
      http://www.brambleberry.com/Bramble-Berry-Bases-C11.aspx

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  40. Veronica says:

    Hi!
    I’m really interested on making M&P soap. I have actually “dreamed” about it a while now :) I tought that im going to start with the M&P soap first (because i haven’t made soap before), when i’m more advanced i’m starting to do CP soap, is that good idea? I have been doing a loooot of research on soapmaking and i think i could give a try to finally actually do M&P soap. I have only one little problem: i live in northern europe and we use different measurment terms (and my english is terrible, so sorry) so we don’t use ounces or cups etc. The most hardest thing is the temperature because we use Celcius and you use Fahrenhaits. So im a little afraid that i’m going to fail because of wrong amount of fragrance or colorant. How can i get right measurments for my soap? Again i’m so sorry for my badbadbad english, but i hope that you guys understand what i’m trying to tell here :-)

    -Veronica

    • Amanda says:

      Hi Veronica!

      Your English is great! :) Many soapers begin with melt and pour soap, and move on to cold process once they feel a little bit more comfortable. Melt and pour techniques and cold process techniques are very different, so if you really want to start doing cold process, I would recommend trying a few really simple recipes first :). You may find the blog post below helpful, it has great resources for beginners for both melt and pour and cold process soap. Take a look at both, and decide which you’d like to do! :)

      Beginning Soaper Resouce Roundup:
      http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/beginning-soaper-resource-roundup/

      When soaping, most recipes are by weight because measuring by weight is more accurate. While it is an extra step, these measurements can easily be converted using resources online. Temperatures can also be converted fairly easily :).

      Let me know if you have any more questions, I’d be happy to help! :)

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  41. Gaby says:

    Hi,

    I have been making M&P soaps for a while but always have the same problem. They “sweat”. Even inside cello bags!
    I live in Panama which is veeery humid.
    I purchased the LCP base and this still happened :(

    A few months ago I read somewhere that if you spritz your soap with alcohol after un-molding and put them in a plastic bag it will prevent sweating. Surprisingly this worked! But only for a few weeks. I was asked to make 12 soap bars, the person never showed up to get them so I stored them in my closet. When I checked on them about 2 weeks later there were crystals all over them!

    I really don’t know what else to do.

  42. Crystal Sutton says:

    What sort of antibacterial additives can be added to melt and pour? Can coconut oil be added for additional moisture? I’ve made some melt and pour bars using shea butter base and it seemed a little drying to the skin.

  43. Maria says:

    Can you make a M&P soap from a normal soap like NIVEA cucumber and youghurt soap, if yoy can,i wonder how because I want to do it and just don’t know how, and what scents are the best to add (natural)??????

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Maria!

      I’m actually not sure if that would work! Our bases are designed to be melted and poured multiple times, but I’m not sure about store-bought soap.

      You may want to try a small test batch to see if it works. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  44. Joanne Spensley says:

    Hi!

    I hope someone can help me with this one! After I have removed my melt and pour soap from their mould there always seems to be a glassy or over shiny streaky appearance on the back of the soap. At first I thought it was the alcohol I was spraying, however it occurs even when it is not used! I feel it spoils the appearance of my soap because it doesn’t look particularly natural.

    Regards,
    Jo
    (Australia)

  45. Aleah says:

    I follow these directions. However, when my soaps are being used. The layers always breaks apart eventually. Why is that? Is there something that can be done about that? Because I know some people would not like that…

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Aleah!

      The key to getting those layers to stick together is to spray them with 99% alcohol right before you pour your second layer. You want to spray enough so it coats the hardened layer, but not so much that it’s drenched.

      We’ve found about 3-6 sprays does the trick. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  46. ebony says:

    Hello :-). I bought some melt and pour. made some soaps that i was happy with but they look awful as while waiting to go hard to demoted they seem to attracted water/moisture droplets all over. did I do something wrong when heating? Thank you

  47. ebony says:

    Hello :-). I bought some melt and pour. made some soaps that i was happy with but they look awful as while waiting to go hard to demould they seem to attracted water/moisture droplets all over. did I do something wrong when heating? Thank you

  48. ebony says:

    Hello :-). I bought some melt and pour. made some soaps but they all bled into each other. will this happen with all water based dye . should i use pigment or mica instead. Thank you

  49. […] I hope this has been helpful and that you will have a go! As I said, I will try and post photos tomorrow. If you need any help with using Melt & Pour soap, click here. […]

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