Making cold process soap for the first time can be intimidating. With so many recipes and options it can be difficult to find a good place to start. The Beginner’s Cold Process Soap Kit was created especially for the first-time soaper. With a simple combinations of oils, a tried and true fragrance and no colorants, making your first batch of cold process soap becomes straight forward.
Not only does this kit include everything you need to make soap, you also receive a PDF booklet. Full of tips, tricks and essential cold process information, this booklet is a great tool for beginning soapers. If you are looking for more information to get started with cold process soap making, the Beginner’s Resource Roundup is a great place to start.
The Beginner’s Cold Process Kit Contains:
2 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
2 lbs. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
1 lb. Coconut Oil
1 lb. Palm Oil
1 lb. Olive Oil- Pomace
4 oz. Castor Oil
Cardboard Soap Mold
Making Cold Process Soap E-Book
Summer Cigar Bands
You will need to provide:
Shatter proof, heat resistant, non-reactive bowls (2)
Mixing tool (preferably a stick blender)
Freezer paper or plastic
Beginner’s Cold Process Kit Recipe:
6 oz. Coconut Oil
6 oz. Palm Oil
9 oz. Olive Oil- Pomace
1 oz. Castor Oil
7 oz. Distilled Water
3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
1.4-1.8 (depending on your personal preference) oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, I highly recommend checking out the FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
LYE WATER PREP: Before making soap, you first must prep your ingredients. This involves making your lye water, measuring fragrance and oils and lining your mold. Measure distilled water and lye in two heat safe containers. Wearing gloves, goggles, long sleeves and pants, slowly add the lye to the distilled water. Using a spoon, stir the lye until the water becomes clear. Label the container, and set aside in a safe place to allow the lye water to cool. I like to make lye water about 2 hours before soaping. This gives the lye time to cool down as it becomes very hot.
OIL PREP: The Cold Process Beginners Kit comes with four oils: Olive, Coconut, Palm and Castor. Before soaping, the correct amount of oils need to be measured. Place a large mixing bowl on the scale and tare. Add the oils one by one, taring between each to ensure the correct amount is added to your bowl. Palm and Coconut Oil can become hard when cool. To heat them up, simply pop the microwavable bags into the microwave to fully melt. Oils should be completely clear, and not murky. Note: It’s very important to fully melt the Palm Oil before use. If not completely melted, the stearic and other fatty acids will not disperse evenly and the Palm Oil will not produce consistent soaping results.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure out the correct amount of Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil into a glass container. Be sure to use glass, as undiluted fragrance oils can begin to disinegrate some types of plastic. You can read more about this in the Undiluted Aroma Oils + Plastic Don’t Mix blog post.
MOLD PREP: The ingredients of the Cold Process Beginner’s Kit come in a sturdy cardboard box. Once lined, the kit box serves as a great mold! Using the box allows you to try cold process soap making first, before investing in a mold. If you already have a mold, feel free to use it! Using parchment paper, line the box with the shiny side of the parchment paper facing up. Without lining the mold, the soap will stick to the cardboard. For more info on how to line a mold, the How to Line Any Mold post may help!
Once the ingredients are prepped, the lye has cooled and the mold is lined, it’s time to make soap!
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
ONE: Slowly pour the lye into the bowl of oils. Pouring over the stick blender helps reduce bubbles. Gently tap the stick blender against the bottom of the bowl to “burp” the blender, and release any trapped air bubbles.
TWO: Pulse the stick blender to begin emulsifying the oils and lye water. Alternate between pulsing and stirring with the stick blender.Within about a minute, the soap will reach trace. Trace refers to the stage in soap making when the oils and lye water have emulsified, and will not separate. Trace looks like thin pudding, where faint trailings of soap stay on the surface of your soap mixture when lightly drizzled from a few inches overhead.
THREE: Once your soap has reached a light trace, the batter will continue to thicken the more it is stick blended. Because this soap is simple and does not feature swirls or an intricate design, you can continue to stick blend until a medium trace is acquired. Below, you can see an example of a medium to thick trace.
FOUR: Add Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil, and use a whisk to fully incorporate into the soap. Because fragrance can sometimes accelerate trace, it is best to add it last. Using a whisk rather than the stick blender will help avoid the soap from becoming too thick to pour.
FIVE: Once the fragrance is fully incorporated, pour the soap batter into the mold. Firmly tap the box on your work surface to release air bubbles. Optional Step: Spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol to avoid soda ash.
SIX: Allow the soap to sit in the mold for 3-4 days before unmolding. Remove the soap from the mold, and cut! Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
Looking for a way to package your project? These Summer Cigar Bands are perfect for giving your soap a professional look. Simply download the free PDF, print, and wrap them around your soap!
What was the first soap recipe you ever made? And if you haven’t tried soaping yet…what’s holding you back?