Now that summer has officially begun, temperatures are on the rise and in some area of the country, are way way up (Shout out and cooling thoughts to Arizona, Arkansas and Eastern Washington). If you are a summer person like me and live in a more moderate climate, this is great news! I absolutely love spending time in the warm weather and outdoors hiking, biking and swimming. However, the heat does affect how certain soapy ingredients need to be handled. Butters, oils and other ingredients change consistency when exposed to higher temperatures. This is especially true when ingredients and products are being shipped and sit in a hot delivery truck for long periods of time.
If you have ordered from Bramble Berry recently, you may have received liquid oils or butters when you were expecting a firm texture. All solid oils and butters have a melting point where they melt from a solid into a liquid. Once the butters cool down again, they will resolidify. The quality of butters and oils does not decrease by melting and solidifying several times. But remember to always fully melt your entire container of palm oil to ensure your soap receives the proper ratio of all the fatty acids.
Average Melting Point of Common Hard Soapmaking Oils and Butters
Avocado Butter about 90° F
Cocoa Butter about 100° F
Coffee Butter about 104° F
Mango Butter about 86° F
Shea Butter about 90° F
Coconut Oil 76° F
Palm Kernel Flakes about 102° F
Palm Oil 95-97° F
Beeswax 144-147° F
Because butters and oils need to be melted before they can be made into cold process soap, let nature do some of the work for you! But, if you are not using them for soap and prefer oils and butters to remain solid, you may want to keep them in your fridge or cool place in your home to prevent melting. Below is coconut oil inside Bramble Berry’s retail store, Otion: The Soap Bar, which experienced a hot day of 81° F. As you can see, the coconut oil has started to melt due to the hot temperatures inside the store.
Heat can cause some butters such as shea, mango and cocoa to become grainy. Graininess is not an indication of poor quality, but is simply a reaction of temperature fluctuation. Butters include various fatty acids, and each acid has different melting and solidifying temperatures. Once the butter begins to cool down from a melted state, the fatty acids will begin to solidify at different temperatures. If the butter cools down slowly, the fatty acids may clump together. These clumps are the graininess that you feel on your skin. To avoid this, melted butters should be cooled quickly to help all the fatty acids solidify at the same time, which prevents them from forming clumps. If your butters arrive liquid or semi-liquid, stir or shake them up to get the fatty acids mixed back up evenly and, pop them in the freezer right away to help them cool quickly and evenly.
Tempering your butters is a great way to avoid graininess caused by temperature fluctuation.
You can also temper your butters. Tempering butters is a technique that helps prevent graininess, and keeps butters smooth. Tempering involves heating butters and maintaining a high heat for a prolonged amount of time, about one hour. This causes the fatty acids to melt completely. The product is then rapidly cooled, which results in a smoother butter. For harder butters such as mango and cocoa, slowly heat the butters to about 100° F and hold this temperature for 45-60 minutes. Shea butter should be heated to about 180° F and held for 45-60 minutes. Be careful to not overheat your butters during this process. Keeping a constant and even temperature may require you to turn the heat source on and off. A crock pot is also a popular way to temper butters. Once your butter has been tempered, pour it into an airtight container and place into the fridge to cool rapidly. Graininess in butters tends to be a more common problem during the hot summer months, because the butters may melt slightly during shipping. If you receive a butter that has melted in shipping, either toss it straight in the freezer or temper and fridge/freeze it to get rid of graininess.
If you own a small business, high temperatures can make shipping many bath and beauty products difficult. This is especially true for body butters that, when melted, change textures dramatically. Unfortunately, you can’t tell your customers to temper their already made products! There are several things you can do to help your customers receive their products in mint condition during hot summer months. The key is to communicate to your customer that the item is temperature sensitive. That way, the customer can help themselves to receive it in the best condition possible. Below are a few tips to keep your package in tip-top shape during shipping.
- Pack extremely heat sensitive products such as butters with ice packs and thermo cases to help keep products cool. Keep in mind that ice packs usually don’t last longer than three days in transit. You may choose to include the ice packs into your shipping costs. The good news is that most ice packs are reusable, and the customer can use them for other things once they receive their package.
- Shipping your package along with dry ice is another option, but keep in mind that dry ice is considered a dangerous good and requires special handling.
- Ask your customers to arrange delivery to a time and place where they can receive the package immediately. This way, their package won’t be sitting in the hot sun for hours. This might mean that they should have the packaged delivered to their office or workplace. Or, they may want to ask their neighbors, family or friends to bring the package into their home once delivered.
- If delivering a package to a hot climate (or if you live in a hot climate), encourage your customers to choose expedited, 2-day, or overnight shipping. To help limit the time the package is in transit, do not ship the items on a Friday. Instead, ship the items Monday-Wednesday to ensure the items reach the customer in time.
- Perform a “ship test.” Ship a temperature sensitive product to a friend or family member with ice packs/thermo cases and quick shipping times to see how it arrives to them. If your product is still being affected by the heat, you know it’s time to up the heat protection! If you can’t get your products to customers in the summer without them melting, you may wish to not ship some of your products in the hot summer simply to ensure the efficacy of your products.
In addition to butters and oils, your soap can be affected by the heat as well. For cold process soap, a warm room temperature can help promote gel phase. ‘Gelling’ and ‘gel phasing’ in cold process soap refers to a part of the saponification (soapmaking) process where the soap gets warm and gelatinous – up to 180 degrees. If you’d like to learn more about gel phase, check out this blog post. Gel phase helps colors appear brighter in soap, and gives it a slightly translucent and shiny look.
The number one way to promote gel phase in your soap is to insulate it to promote hotter temperatures, but this may not be necessary in the summer! Insulating cold process soap in a hot room could cause the soap to overheat, which results in an effect called alien brains. Overheating your soap does not effect the quality, and is purely aesthetic. If your area gets extremely hot during the summer, you may consider placing your soap in the fridge for the first hour after pouring. Check out the When to Insulate Handmade Soap blog post to learn more.
For melt and pour, higher temperatures can bring humidity, which causes glycerin dew. Melt and pour soap contains extra glycerin, which is a natural humectant. This glycerin allows the soap to be melted and attracts moisture from the air. This moisture accumulates on the top of the soap, and looks like sweat or dew drops on the soap. The best way to avoid glycerin dew is to wrap your melt and pour immediately after it is completely hard and cooled. This stops the soap from attracting moisture. Click here to read more about preventing glycerin dew.
It’s best to store all handmade beauty products in a cool, dark place. This can be tricky when temperatures rise. Some products can benefit by being stored in the fridge, like butters and lotions. Melt and pour and cold process soap should not be stored in the fridge, as cold process soap needs good air circulation, and the fridge can promote glycerin dew in melt and pour. Click here to learn more about how to store your handmade products.
Soaping in the summer heat can be tricky. But with the proper precautions, it’s easy to keep your products consistent throughout the year. During the summer, the Soap Lab gets extremely hot. It always has multiple fans blowing to keep temperatures as low as possible, and help the cold process soap to get good air circulation. The key is knowing your product! It can sometimes take a few seasons to really learn how it reacts to the summer heat. How do you protect your products from the rise in temperature?
Hello, I’ve stored palm oil and soaping supplies in the garage and realized due to our hot climate, they liquified. Will this affect the wuality of my oils for soaping?
Thank you,
Kathy
That will be just fine, if the oil melts and hardens it doesn’t affect the quality. Just make sure to mix the palm oil really well before each use so the fatty acid chains are distributed evenly.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I made a batch of cold process soap. And after few hrs while in the molds, I noticed on some of my bars of soap there were some small sweat droplets . I uncovered my molds and now the soaps are drying and the small sweat droplets are almost gone.
why did this happen? And will that affect the quality of my soaps later on? Does it mean the soap will develop DOS in few weeks?
Thank you so much.
Sometimes when the soap gets really hot it can get those beads of moisture. We’re not entirely sure why it happens, but the liquid typically reabsorbs in a few days and the soap is just fine. It sounds like that’s what happened with your bars, so they should be just fine and have a normal shelf life.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Great article. I do have one question. What about sugar scrubs? Would the temperature outside affect a batch of sugar and dishwashing soap?
Thanks Amy, glad you like the post! If it’s really hot outside, the sugar scrub can start to melt or get a little goopy. Overall scrubs and dishwashing soap are pretty sturdy so they should be fine! If you have a portable fan or a shady place to put them that would be ideal. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I live in a hot climate and don’t have AC. My coconut oil has melted totally and my palm oil is melting slightly. Can I put these straight into my cold processed soap or do I have to place them in the refrigerator to bring them back to a solid state? I assume no, but I wasn’t sure if there would be any issues with weight, distribution of the oil fatty acids, or anything else that I wouldn’t know about:-) Thanks!
You can add the melted palm and coconut oil in your soap! That’s the advantage of living in a hot climate. Just make sure both are completely melted and mixed before soaping with them. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thanks so much, that is what I thought, but I got paranoid and didn’t want literally..a hot mess! 🙂
You’re welcome Staci! 🙂
Hello, thanks again for another great post.
Can humidity effect how long a cold process soap would need to stay in the mold?
I have been using a similar recipe all along, a few tweaks here or there but nothing major. In the late winter and spring I was able to unmold most of my soaps 24-36 hours after pouring them. I typically use the 10″ silicone mold. Now that it is humid here, I have had to wait up to 7 days to unmold some and even then the bottoms are still fairly soft. Once the soap is unmolded, I often wait an additional day to cut the bars. Once they are cut curing seems normal. But its only been about 3 weeks of this humidity so its a little early to say for sure. I have central air, but the soap room vent is closed and the door is shut most of the time. Not sure if that makes a difference. Thanks for any insight!
The humidity can definitely play a role in how long it takes to unmold the soap! During those first couple days in the mold, the water in the soap is starting to evaporate. If there is excess water in the air, it won’t evaporate as quickly. That means the soap may take longer to unmold in the summer.
There are a few things you can do to speed that up though! You can add 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils to your cooled lye water. That helps it unmold more easily. Read more about sodium lactate here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-sodium-lactate/
You can also water discount! If the soap has less water, it will harden and cure more quickly. This post has more on discounting: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/water-discounting-cold-process-soap-how-why/
It can also help to run a fan over the soap while it’s in the mold, or use a dehumidifier to absorb the excess moisture in the air. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I am a bit anxious to make my cold process soap this summer as last summer all my soap got a lot of ‘glycerin sweat’ on all of them. please can everyone tell me how to get around this. ? Nobody wanted the soap over summer as it just looked sad and wet.
Are you adding any salt to the bars, or any extra glycerin to the recipe? What colors are you using? Typically, cold process soap doesn’t sweat unless you’re in a very humid climate. It may be something else! Let me know and I can offer some suggestions. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’ve noticed a significant increase in the curing time of my cold process soap in the summer, because of the increased humidity. My house is painfully dry in winter, and during those months my soap seems fully cured after 4 weeks, but during the hot humid months, it takes more like 8 weeks to cure fully. (We have AC, but not central AC, so it gets used very sparingly.)
I use a Damp Rid bucket in my curing area to keep humidity down in August when the heavy rains come. It seems to help. Does anyone else have tips for summer soap curing?
Hi Amanda!
A dehumidifier can really help during hot, humid summers! It helps absorb the moisture in the room, helping the liquid in your soap evaporate more quickly. You can also place rice or silica packets near your bars. That helps absorb moisture as well. 🙂
You may also try water discounting your soap! Because the soap has less water to evaporate it will cure more quickly. Learn how to water discount soap in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/water-discounting-cold-process-soap-how-why/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! I am a newbie and greatly appreciate Ann-Marie and her staff.
I have a few questions.
1) What kind of container do you recommend should be used to cool the butters after tempering? With them being at such high heat, I am not sure what to use.
2) When using tempered butters later in recipes that require you to melt the butters, does the grainy texture return since it is being melted and cooling in the recipe at a slow rate?
3) Is tempering required for all butters. I read the summer heat tutorial and it only specifically mentioned the heating temps & time for shea, mango, & cocoa butters.
Thanks!
Hi Tanya!
To cool the butters, you can use any container as long as it’s fairly sturdy! I like to use tupperware containers. They are airtight and meant to be microwaved, so they can withstand the higher heat of the butter. 🙂
Because the butters have already been tempered, that prevents the graininess in your recipe! To ensure it doesn’t get grainy, we recommend heating the butters gently. For instance, if you’re making lotion, we recommend heating the other oils and waxes in the microwave. Then, remove that from the heat and add the butter to melt it. Because it’s melting gently, it will prevent those grains. Then, it will cool quickly as you work with the rest of the lotion.
See that process in action in this Making Lotion From Scratch video: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/make-lotion-scratch-soap-queen-tv/
We have found softer butters, like coffee and avocado, don’t get grainy. Because of that, we recommend the tempering for harder butters, like mango, shea and cocoa butter. 🙂
Read more about butters in this Sunday Night Spotlight: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/all-about-butters-in-bath-beauty-products/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
This helps. Thanks!
You’re welcome! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I probably should have asked this before I thought to try it, but does the tempered butters need to be in an airtight container? I purchased some silicone molds in anticipation of pre-cutting my tempered butters but I obviously can’t make these airtight. Is this okay? I put my first batch in a covered glass pan and didn’t seem to have any issues with the Shea but I realized I should ask.
Hi Natasha!
We recommend keeping the tempered butter in a covered container. That way it is protected from any debris and dust! I think a covered glass pan should work just fine. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just made my FIRST batch of goat’s milk soap (all ingrediants from brambleberry) and put it in the freezer for the first twelve hours due to the 90 degree weather that we have been having here. I then transferred it to the fridge for another 36 hours. I then removed, it unmolded perfectly, but tried cutting into bars right away (because that is what I thought I was supposed to do). The bars began to chip on the edges while cutting. Do you think that this is because I needed to wait and let the soap reach room temperature first or do you think that my recipe needs to be adjusted? My recipe is as follows: 40% olive oil; 25% coconut oil; 10%rice bran oil; 8% avocado oil; 8% shea butter; 5% castor oil; 4% aloe oil; replaced out all water with 100% goat’s milk. Also added fragrance, liquid silk, and sodium lactate. The soap has a beautiful white color and smells just like vanilla but was so dissapointed to see all crumbly!! So first try at soapmaking not a total loss! Just not sure what I did wrong?
Hi Krista!
Your recipe is great, and your storage method was just right! Milk can scorch if it gets too hot, so keeping it in the freezer and fridge is a great idea. 🙂
I have a couple theories on what may be causing the chipping. The first is that it may just be the soap was fairly hard after being in the cool fridge for 24 hours. We typically recommend letting it sit another 3-4 days at room temperature after being removed. That way it has a chance to firm up at room temperature and cut nicely. It may just be that the soap needs a couple more days to sit before cutting!
It can also be lye heaviness. Too much lye can make the soap brittle or crumbly. In a couple of days, I would recommend checking the pH level. You want it around 9-10. Find out how to check soap pH in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/test-ph-red-cabbage/
If it is lye heavy, you can still use it as laundry soap!
Three DIY Laundry Soap Recipes: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/home-crafts/three-diy-laundry-soap-recipes/
Sodium lactate can also cause crumbliness if too much is added. How much did you add to your batch?
Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Kelsey,
I only used 2% sodium lactate and I ran my whole recipe through the Brambleberry lye calculator multiple times and measured my lye by weight and checked it twice! I do have some ph strips so I can test the soap in another day or so to see how the ph looks. I will let you know. Keeping my fingers crossed that I should have just let it sit out for another 4 days before cutting! Because it is a test batch, I can always try cutting my soap bars in half again at the 4 day out-of-the-fridge mark and see how the soap reacts. I might try that after I check the ph. Thanks for your helpful suggestions!
-Krista
You’re welcome! Definitely let me know how the pH test goes. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
My ph came out great at exactly 9 using my ph test strips. I cut the soap in half again after it sat out for a few days, no chipping or crumbling. I guess that I learned an important lesson about when to cut the soap bars (temperature does matter)! Now I just have to wait for a few more weeks so I can actually test the soap out. I was going for a hard goat milk bar that would have a lot of great suds, good cleansing, and really moisturizing for dry skin, eczema, etc. Do you have any more suggestions for the actual balance in the recipe? Thanks again for all your help!
-Krista
Hi Krista!
So glad to hear the pH test was perfect! Sounds like the soap was just a bit hard right out of the freezer. Letting it sit at room temperature for a few days will definitely help. 🙂
Milk soaps tend to be a bit softer, as the milk adds extra fat to the recipe. If you want a harder bar of soap, you can add more hard oils. You can add up to 30% palm oil and 30% coconut oil. Coconut oil adds to the cleansing and lathering properties as well. The castor oil already in the recipe is great for sudsing too!
Learn more about oils and what they add to soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
The Formulating Cold Process Recipes post is really helpful as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/formulating-cold-process-recipes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Krista! Sorry to hear about your chipped edges, but it now sounds you’ve worked out the problem. I’ve been making goat milk soaps for over a year and have whittled my process down to this. I put the soap in the fridge for 24 hours. Freezing is not necessary as long as you are soaping cool (for instance, I soap at 68-70F). Then I unmold and leave the soap for another 8 hours (or overnight) to completely come to room temperature. Cutting a hard/cold soap too early can be difficult and can definitely cause edges to chip, as yours did. Also, if you’re using a wire cutter, you’ll have better success with your edges in general. I had many a chipped edge when I started out cutting with a long kitchen knife – so frustrating. Will never regret investing in a (single bar) wire slicer and edge trimmer to neaten the bars up :-)! Continued good luck and happy soaping!
Thanks for the great tips Tina! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you so much for these tips! I am making cold process soap daily this week for my daughter’s wedding (favors) and it is supposed to be 115 degrees today. So, my kitchen is a little warmer today as the air conditioner is not cutting it. I noticed after pouring the lye into the water that my face started to sting a little in places and I was wearing a face shield. I think it could have been a bit of aerosolized lye sticking to the sweat on my face! A cool wet washcloth solved the problem but I thought I would mention it. Even though we often don’t see or smell it, the lye dust is there.
Hi Maralee!
You are very welcome, glad you found the tips helpful. 🙂
Oh wow – 115 is hot! Thanks so much for mentioning that. A face mask, goggles and cool washcloth would be a good thing to keep on hand during the warmer months!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Where are you located when it gets to 115′? I am in Phoenix area, yes 115, 118′. Its hot.
Do you gel the soap? Where? If I put the insulated soap in the HOT garage, wouldn’t that be to hot? Or just don’t insulate it and keep it in a very warm place.
Thanks.
Hi JCC!
If your garage is very hot, you may not need to insulate that soap at all! In fact, insulating it could cause the soap to overheat. That can cause the soap to crack or form alien brains. Read more about insulating your soap in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/when-to-insulate-handmade-soap/
I would recommend putting your soap unconvered in your hot garage. If you find the soap doesn’t gel or goes through partial gel phase, you can cover it with a blanket or towel. Just make sure to check it every couple of hours to make sure the soap isn’t overheating. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I have a sister who lives in the desert part of California and she has asked me about sending her lotion bars. I told her it might be better to wait until fall. Any tips for mailing lotion bars?
Hi Laurel!
Because those lotion bars have butter and wax, they are at risk of melting as well. You may want to pack them with ice packs, or make sure your sister is there when the package arrives so it doesn’t sit in the sun.
Even with precautions, those bars can melt. That’s something to consider before mailing them! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Yay! Thank you so much for the tips. Yesterday I made cold process soap of cupcakes and I live in a very hot place, I was so concerned that the soap was to loose that I couldn’t do the “frosting” that I didn’t realize I was melting too from the heat. Hahaha. Finally I turn on the air conditioner but spend like 4 hours when it usually takes me 2 hours!
You’re welcome Moni, so glad you like the post! Making soapy frosting in the heat is a bit tricky for sure. Our Soap Lab is hot in the summer, and it definitely takes longer to make. Storing your oils in the fridge beforehand can help speed that process up a bit. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Whipped Cold Process Soap Frosting: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/make-soap-frosting-soap-queen-tv/
I have a soap room that isn’t in my house and it can get pretty warm in there, should I move my essential oils and/or fragrance oils into my air conditioned house? I live in Western Washington also and we are having a really hot summer (no complaints!) but I am worried about my scent oils. Basically what I am asking is will the heat ruin them.
Thanks!
Hi Pam!
It certainly has been warm recently hasn’t it? Definitely happy we have lots of water to swim in around here!
Fragrance and essential oils are pretty sturdy, so heat shouldn’t affect them too much. Prolonged exposure to high temperatures may cause some of the lighter top notes in your oils to fade away. If you want to be on the extra safe side, you can store them inside during the summer. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you for tips. I have other problem, my lard soap turn yellow. I made it from regular lard. It is 6 months old, it is hard and nice. Can you tell me what happened and why?
Hi Magda!
You’re welcome for the tips! I did a quick internet search and it looks like some soapers have experienced lard soap going yellow over time. This is especially the case with hot process soaping, as that lard can scorch and discolor. What method are you using for your soap?
It can also be fragrance discoloration! If a fragrance has a vanilla content, it can cause that soap to change colors as it cures. Read more in the Why Did My Soap Turn Brown post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/why-did-my-soap-turn-brown/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I made a batch of cold process soap yesterday using lard for the first time. One portion of my soap was creamy white when I poured it, yet this morning (almost 24 hours later) the white portion has turned yellow except for a small amount in the outer edges of the corners. The other colors have also been affected. I have been searching the internet to see what might have caused this. Other than finding a reference similar to yours (Kelsey) that lard soap can turn yellow over time I couldn’t find any other similar experiences. Just guessing, but I think the soap may have overheated during gel phase. There were a couple of small hairline cracks on the top hardly noticeable now that it has cooled. The fragrance I used does have a small amount of vanillin (less than 1 %) and would normally turn from creamy to tan while curing. Other than the color change, this doesn’t have any of the characteristics of a failed batch. Just a very unexpected and interesting result that I thought I’d share.
That’s a great point Debbie! Gel phase can definitely make a difference in colors. Typically, it makes colored soap brighter and slightly shiny looking. If the soap goes through partial gel phase, it can darken the color in the middle and leave a lighter-colored ring around the outside. In this case, the gel phase may be yellowing the lard.
Jazzed About Gel Phase: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/gel-phase/
To prevent that yellowing, you may want to pop the freshly poured soap in the freezer or fridge for 4-24 hours. That will keep it nice and cool and prevent gel phase. Either way, the soap will feel great.
Thanks so much for your help Debbie! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you, Kelsey! I’ll definitely try keeping it out of gel phase next time. 🙂
You’re welcome! Thank you. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thanks this is very interesting
You’re welcome Odette, thanks so much for reading! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
When shipping Cold Process Soap that is pretty solid (palm oil in it) do I really need to worry about the heat messing it up?
Hi Davey!
Cold process soap itself has a fairly high melting point! So, while it may get a bit soft during shipping, it would take very high temperatures for that soap to melt. I think it should be just fine. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
This is great info, thanks! Fortunately I have air conditioning in my house so even in the summer it’s status quo for soap making. Anything that I need to have melted, I set out in the garage for a little while. It’s not in direct sunlight but usually is plenty warm and works very well.
You’re welcome, glad you like the post Michael! Air conditioning is definitely beneficial when making soap (and feels great too). Also, that’s awesome that your garage does the melting for you. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry