Fresh Face Cleansing Bars for Dry & Oily Skin

  • Difficulty:Beginner
  • Time:30 minutes
  • Yields:Six 4 oz. bars (for each recipe)

An important step in any skincare routine involves keeping your skin clear of excess dirt and oil. These facial cleansers created with melt and pour soap are specially formulated to suit either dry or oily skin.

For dry skin try the bar at the end of this post. Treat yourself to a luxurious and moisturizing blend of Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil in our Shea Melt & Pour base. This results in a soap that doesn’t really lather due to the extra oil & butter, but it is mild and gentle for dry skin. If your skin is on the oily side try the recipe directly below, Green Zeolite Clay helps absorb excess oil while Olive Leaf Powder is known for its antiseptic properties.

Tea Tree & Rosemary Cleaning Bar for Oily Skin
6 Half Cylinder Silicone Mold 
24 oz. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
2 tsp. Olive Leaf Powder
4 tsp. Green Zeolite Clay 
3 ml Tea Tree Essential Oil 
2 ml Rosemary Essential Oil 
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Cut and melt 24 oz. of White Melt and Pour Base in a heat-safe container on 20-30 second bursts. Add Olive Leaf Powder, and stir.

TWO: Add Green Zeolite Clay, and use a whisk to remove any large chunks of powder.

THREE: Add Tea Tree Essential Oil and Rosemary Essential Oil. Stir to thoroughly combine.

FOUR: Once the melt and pour has reached about 120-125 degrees, pour into the mold. Spray with isopropyl alcohol to disperse any bubbles. Allow to fully dry and enjoy!

If your skin is in need of moisture, the Lavender & Chamomile Cleansing Bar is made with additional Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil to nourish and hydrate. Because of the additional moisture the lather is minimal, but still thoroughly cleanses. With Chamomile Extract and Chamomile Essential Oil, this cleanser is also suitable for sensitive skin due to Chamomile’s ability to soothe irritation.

Lavender & Chamomile Cleansing Bar for Dry Skin
6 Half Cylinder Silicone Mold 
24 oz. Shea Melt and Pour Soap Base
.5 oz Shea Butter
.5 oz Jojoba Oil
6 ml Chamomile Extract
2 ml Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil 
1 mL Chamomile, Roman, Domestic Essential Oil
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
ONE: Cut and melt 24 oz. of Shea Melt and Pour Base in a heat-safe container on 20-30 second bursts. In a separate heat-safe container, melt Shea Butter on 10 second bursts and add to the melt and pour.
TWO: Stir in the Jojoba Oil and Chamomile Extract.
THREE: Stir in the Lavender Essential Oil, and Chamomile Essential Oil.

FOUR: Once fully blended, pour into mold. Spray with isopropyl alcohol to disperse any bubbles. Allow to fully harden and dry, and enjoy!

How often do you wash your face? I religiously wash mine every morning and night!

38 Responses to “Fresh Face Cleansing Bars for Dry & Oily Skin”

  1. I have a couple questions: For the lavender bars, can you use the white melt and pour base, and just add some shea butter? Also, can I just make my own soap to use in the facial bars? if so, how?


  2. Sabrina Caldwell says:

    OMG!!! Thank you so much for posting this. I have had people ask me to make them a facial bar but haven’t found a recipe I like. This looks wonderful!!!

  3. How cool is this Adding the Shea Butter won’t ruin the lather from the soap right?

  4. Kimberly Feher says:

    Two things:

    1: the recipe for the oily skin bar calls for Rosemary Essential Oil in the ingredient list, but lavender in the instructions.

    2: Would I be able to substitute Dead Sea Mud for the Olive Leaf Powder and Green Clay?

    • Kimberly Feher says:

      Also, will you be working on a formula for combination skin?

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Kimberly!

      Thank you so much for catching that!

      We didn’t test this recipe with Dead Sea Mud, but I believe it would be OK! The usage rate may be a little different, so I would recommend starting with a teaspoon and going from there. :)

      Also, right now we don’t have a recipe for combination skin, but we may be working on a tutorial in the future.

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  5. manasa says:

    can I use the goat milk based to make this product, that’s the one i order instead of the white melt and pour. Thank you. i can’t wait for it get here!!!!!!!!!!!!. So excited.

  6. manasa says:

    can this soap be used as a body soap too or just facial soap

  7. Tonja says:

    I was wondering if there is a substitute essential we can use in place of chamomile, roman, domestic essential oil.

  8. Tonja says:

    If you were to sell these bars of soap, how much will you sell them for? :)

  9. Summer says:

    I make a very similar oily skin bar, but I use the hemp oil base. Many of the comments about the base said that they felt that the soap was a little drying so I figured it would be the perfect one to use for acne soap. I have had very good success with it and the Zeolite clay turns it a beautiful shade of green.

  10. Patti says:

    I just love the look of these. Very spa like. They seem like they would be very good winter and summer facial soaps for me. Love the half cylinder shape too. I have a mold similar to those, but it’s not silicone and I would love a silicone version.

  11. Rhea says:

    Hi, I ordered both kits and love the ingredients. I have only done the lavender chamomile soap and it seem lovely when I unmolded. However, after wrapping some sort of residue formed on bars. I am new to soap (primary focus is oils, butters, aromatherapy) so I do not know if this is sweating, or Shea crystals or ?
    It rubs of with slight effort but then bars are covered with marks and not appropriate for sale or gifting aesthetically. Any suggestions? I love your site and am really enjoying so many of your products and tutorials. Thanks

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Rhea!

      Sounds like your soaps are sweating. Melt and pour is made with glycerin. Glycerin is a humectant – this means that it moisturizes by drawing water into itself, leaving the dew.

      To prevent it, you can put your unmolded soaps in front of a fan. You can also wrap them in plastic wrap and use a heat gun to shrink the wrap on tightly. I’ll include a link to a blog post with more tips. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      Augh! What’s THAT All Over My Soap?:

      • Rhea says:

        Thank you so much. I made the tea tree and rosemary bars last night and wrapped them right after unmolding and the look nice and smooth. The bars are decidedly darker on the bottom side with more visible sediment from the clay and olive powder. This is still very attractive. Would I have lessened this differential if I had poured it a little later (cooler), thanks again for your excellent info and suggestions.

        • Kelsey says:

          Hi Rhea!

          The soap may be a little to hot. This means it’s thinner and not suspending your clays as much.

          I’d recommend pouring those additives in there when your soap is around 120 to 125F. That should help it suspend better. :)

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  12. Can you use melt and pour base? Also, can you make these with cold process soap? And finally, if you make these with the white or clear melt and pour, will adding pure shea butter ruin anything?

  13. GiGi says:

    I have a lot of fresh peppermint, rosemary and thyme from my garden this year and want to use it in soaps. I’m a beginner, so I’ll be using melt and pour method. Is this ok?

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi GiGi!

      Adding natural products to your soap can be tricky. If the plants have excess water, they can change the texture of your soap.

      I would recommend drying the plants before adding them. Keep in mind they will turn brown eventually because they’re a natural product. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  14. Linda says:

    Just thought I would follow up on giving my input. I used the Hemp seed oil soap base to make a soap for my husband. I added the olive leaf powder and zeolite clay to the melted base and all was well. I added the rosemary eo and tea tree eo and it remained good. I added some litsea eo and bergamot eo for some added male scent and that is when everything went wrong. The soap had a momentous chemical reaction and turned extremely thick before I could pour it into the mold. It is lumpy and uneven but smells great and lathers very well. It is a good thing that I will not be giving this to anyone and it will stay at home. My husband will not care what it looks like. I will repeat the recipe using only the tea tree and rosemary essential oils. I am sure that it will turn out as it should. Thank you for this recipe for troubled skin.

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Linda!

      Oh no! How much total essential oil did you add to this recipe?

      Also, how long did you melt your melt and pour? If the melt and pour burns, there can be lumps or it can harden earlier. We recommend using 20-30 second bursts in the microwave. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t boil!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  15. Linda says:

    I heated it in the microwave on 30 second bursts. When I took it out and added the clay and olive leaf, the temp was 155 degrees. I added a total of 9 cc’s of oils which was apparently too much. It smells great and my husband will enjoy it. I will make the recipe again using the tea tree eo and rosemary eo only. As I said, every thing was fine until I added the litsea and bergamot essential oils. Thank you for your help and input, but I am sure the error was mine when I added too many essential oils.

    • Kelsey says:

      Hi Linda!

      Hmm, that’s interesting. I have to say I’m a little stumped as to why it turned lumpy on you!

      My only guess is maybe because the soap was hot, adding a little extra room temperature essential oil could’ve caused it to harden quickly.

      You can definitely use the Litsea and Bergamot Essential Oils, I would just recommend adding 5 mL total. Also, you can add it when the soap is cooler, around 130-140F. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  16. Angie G says:

    If I can’t buy all the ingredients, would it be fine just to use the tea tree and rosemary EO? Or substitute the rosemary for eucalyptus or orange?

  17. Tamara says:

    I made these over the weekend, and I began using the chamomile and lavender soap on my face. I live in California’s Central Valley, and with the weather getting colder and our poor air quality, my skin has gone from oily (in the summer) to dry and irritated. This soap soothed and moisturized my parched face. I follow my face washing with a couple drops of jojoba oil. I will forever use this recipe! Thank u!!

Leave a Comment

(Your email address will not be published)

Where to Start?

Find Tutorials perfect for the BeginnerFind Tutorials perfect for the Intermediate CrafterFind Tutorials perfect for the Advanced Crafter

Daily blog posts sent to your email

Enter your email address

Ad Space

Learn to make Cold Process soap from Anne-Marie Faiola, the Soap Queen

Make your own Nail Polish!

Learn to Make Soap

Learn to Make Mineral Makeup

Soap Queen TV

Soap Queen Apron

iPhone App


Lip Balm

Otion the Soap Bar

Teach Soap Forum