Fresh Face Cleansing Bars for Dry & Oily Skin

An important step in any skincare routine involves keeping your skin clear of excess dirt and oil. These facial cleansers created with melt and pour soap are specially formulated to suit either dry or oily skin.

For dry skin try the bar at the end of this post. Treat yourself to a luxurious and moisturizing blend of Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil in our Shea Melt & Pour base. This results in a soap that doesn’t really lather due to the extra oil & butter, but it is mild and gentle for dry skin. If your skin is on the oily side try the recipe directly below, Green Zeolite Clay helps absorb excess oil while Olive Leaf Powder is known for its antiseptic properties.

Tea Tree & Rosemary Cleaning Bar for Oily Skin
6 Half Cylinder Silicone Mold
24 oz. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
2 tsp. Olive Leaf Powder
4 tsp. Green Zeolite Clay
3 ml Tea Tree Essential Oil
2 ml Rosemary Essential Oil
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Cut and melt 24 oz. of White Melt and Pour Base in a heat-safe container on 20-30 second bursts. Add Olive Leaf Powder, and stir.

TWO: Add Green Zeolite Clay, and use a whisk to remove any large chunks of powder.

THREE: Add Tea Tree Essential Oil and Rosemary Essential Oil. Stir to thoroughly combine.

FOUR: Once the melt and pour has reached about 120-125 degrees, pour into the mold. Spray with isopropyl alcohol to disperse any bubbles. Allow to fully dry and enjoy!

If your skin is in need of moisture, the Lavender & Chamomile Cleansing Bar is made with additional Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil to nourish and hydrate. Because of the additional moisture the lather is minimal, but still thoroughly cleanses. With Chamomile Extract and Chamomile Essential Oil, this cleanser is also suitable for sensitive skin due to Chamomile’s ability to soothe irritation.

Lavender & Chamomile Cleansing Bar for Dry Skin
6 Half Cylinder Silicone Mold
24 oz. Shea Melt and Pour Soap Base
.5 oz Shea Butter
.5 oz Jojoba Oil
6 ml Chamomile Extract
2 ml Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
1 mL Chamomile, Roman, Domestic Essential Oil
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
ONE: Cut and melt 24 oz. of Shea Melt and Pour Base in a heat-safe container on 20-30 second bursts. In a separate heat-safe container, melt Shea Butter on 10 second bursts and add to the melt and pour.
TWO: Stir in the Jojoba Oil and Chamomile Extract.
THREE: Stir in the Lavender Essential Oil, and Chamomile Essential Oil.

FOUR: Once fully blended, pour into mold. Spray with isopropyl alcohol to disperse any bubbles. Allow to fully harden and dry, and enjoy!

How often do you wash your face? I religiously wash mine every morning and night!

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  1. Naomi says

    I only have 1lbs of Shea butter M&P and 1lbs white M&P (they came in Bramble Berry’s M&P samplers). How would I need to adjust the amount of oil, extract, etc to use?

    Thanks :)
    So exited to get started!!

      • Kelsey says

        Hi I really am interested in making the Tea Tree and Rosemary Bars of soap!! I am wondering if you could add poppy seeds to it for additional texture/exfoliation & it would look very pretty. Is that possible without changing the recipe? If so how would you recommend I do this? And if it would need to be changed how would you recommend I do that :)?
        THANKS! !

        • Kelsey says

          Hi Kelsey!

          You can definitely add poppy seeds if you like! Because it’s an additive, it wouldn’t change the recipe at all. We recommend about 1 tsp. per pound of soap, depending on how scrubby you like the bars. :)

          You’ll want to add the poppy seeds when the soap is around 130F or cooler. That way, it is thick enough to suspend the seeds evenly!

          Poppy seeds:

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  2. dahlia says

    I have made the tea tree and rosemary and it is amazing comes out great every time. I would love to try the lavender with chamomile but don’t have chamomile whatsoever oil can I substitute for camomile?

    • Kelsey says

      Hi Cadence!

      The Lavender and Chamomile Cleansing bar has great moisturization properties, but does lather a little less. Clay may may it lather less as well, but I imagine it won’t be too drastic! A small test batch may help. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • Kelsey says

      Hi Chip!

      Oh no! Can you tell me a little bit more about your process, including the temperature you poured at and how long you stirred the oils in? Also, did you make any ingredient substitutions? Let me know and I’ll help you troubleshoot. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Chip says

        I cooked everything in a double boiler following the ingredients exactly. I stirred for about 5 minutes after everything melted. The temperature of the soap was about 130 degrees. I remelted the soap and stirred for about 10 minutes and then added about 8 ounces of more shea melt and pour. This time it set up better, but there was now about 1/4″ of oil that hardened, just not with the soap. I went and tried the soap and it didn’t lather at all.

        I’m not sure what happened as I’ve used all of the products before with flawless results. I’m not sure if I’m not mixing long enough, or now that I added more shea melt and pour, if I totally ruined this batch.

  3. Tamara says

    I made these over the weekend, and I began using the chamomile and lavender soap on my face. I live in California’s Central Valley, and with the weather getting colder and our poor air quality, my skin has gone from oily (in the summer) to dry and irritated. This soap soothed and moisturized my parched face. I follow my face washing with a couple drops of jojoba oil. I will forever use this recipe! Thank u!!

  4. Linda says

    I heated it in the microwave on 30 second bursts. When I took it out and added the clay and olive leaf, the temp was 155 degrees. I added a total of 9 cc’s of oils which was apparently too much. It smells great and my husband will enjoy it. I will make the recipe again using the tea tree eo and rosemary eo only. As I said, every thing was fine until I added the litsea and bergamot essential oils. Thank you for your help and input, but I am sure the error was mine when I added too many essential oils.

    • Kelsey says

      Hi Linda!

      Hmm, that’s interesting. I have to say I’m a little stumped as to why it turned lumpy on you!

      My only guess is maybe because the soap was hot, adding a little extra room temperature essential oil could’ve caused it to harden quickly.

      You can definitely use the Litsea and Bergamot Essential Oils, I would just recommend adding 5 mL total. Also, you can add it when the soap is cooler, around 130-140F. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  5. Linda says

    Just thought I would follow up on giving my input. I used the Hemp seed oil soap base to make a soap for my husband. I added the olive leaf powder and zeolite clay to the melted base and all was well. I added the rosemary eo and tea tree eo and it remained good. I added some litsea eo and bergamot eo for some added male scent and that is when everything went wrong. The soap had a momentous chemical reaction and turned extremely thick before I could pour it into the mold. It is lumpy and uneven but smells great and lathers very well. It is a good thing that I will not be giving this to anyone and it will stay at home. My husband will not care what it looks like. I will repeat the recipe using only the tea tree and rosemary essential oils. I am sure that it will turn out as it should. Thank you for this recipe for troubled skin.

    • Kelsey says

      Hi Linda!

      Oh no! How much total essential oil did you add to this recipe?

      Also, how long did you melt your melt and pour? If the melt and pour burns, there can be lumps or it can harden earlier. We recommend using 20-30 second bursts in the microwave. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t boil!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • Kelsey says

      Hi GiGi!

      Adding natural products to your soap can be tricky. If the plants have excess water, they can change the texture of your soap.

      I would recommend drying the plants before adding them. Keep in mind they will turn brown eventually because they’re a natural product. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  6. Rhea says

    Hi, I ordered both kits and love the ingredients. I have only done the lavender chamomile soap and it seem lovely when I unmolded. However, after wrapping some sort of residue formed on bars. I am new to soap (primary focus is oils, butters, aromatherapy) so I do not know if this is sweating, or Shea crystals or ?
    It rubs of with slight effort but then bars are covered with marks and not appropriate for sale or gifting aesthetically. Any suggestions? I love your site and am really enjoying so many of your products and tutorials. Thanks

    • Kelsey says

      Hi Rhea!

      Sounds like your soaps are sweating. Melt and pour is made with glycerin. Glycerin is a humectant – this means that it moisturizes by drawing water into itself, leaving the dew.

      To prevent it, you can put your unmolded soaps in front of a fan. You can also wrap them in plastic wrap and use a heat gun to shrink the wrap on tightly. I’ll include a link to a blog post with more tips. :)

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      Augh! What’s THAT All Over My Soap?:

      • Rhea says

        Thank you so much. I made the tea tree and rosemary bars last night and wrapped them right after unmolding and the look nice and smooth. The bars are decidedly darker on the bottom side with more visible sediment from the clay and olive powder. This is still very attractive. Would I have lessened this differential if I had poured it a little later (cooler), thanks again for your excellent info and suggestions.

        • Kelsey says

          Hi Rhea!

          The soap may be a little to hot. This means it’s thinner and not suspending your clays as much.

          I’d recommend pouring those additives in there when your soap is around 120 to 125F. That should help it suspend better. :)

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  7. Patti says

    I just love the look of these. Very spa like. They seem like they would be very good winter and summer facial soaps for me. Love the half cylinder shape too. I have a mold similar to those, but it’s not silicone and I would love a silicone version.

  8. Summer says

    I make a very similar oily skin bar, but I use the hemp oil base. Many of the comments about the base said that they felt that the soap was a little drying so I figured it would be the perfect one to use for acne soap. I have had very good success with it and the Zeolite clay turns it a beautiful shade of green.

  9. Kimberly Feher says

    Two things:

    1: the recipe for the oily skin bar calls for Rosemary Essential Oil in the ingredient list, but lavender in the instructions.

    2: Would I be able to substitute Dead Sea Mud for the Olive Leaf Powder and Green Clay?

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