If gloomy February has you seeing grey, this Over the Rainbow Cold Process is sure to cheer you up. Made using the negative embed technique, this soap requires two steps. First, PVC pipes are inserted into the mold, and strapped down using large rubber bands. White soap is poured around the pipes and allowed to harden for three to four days. Once the pipes are removed , the holes are filled with colorful fresh soap. Made with rainbow hues and the juicy Blackberry Sage Cybilla Fragrance Oil, this project reminds me of a tropical vacation!
If you’d like to see another example of the negative embed technique, check out the Misty Maritime Moon Cold Process tutorial. For this soap, the pipes were inserted into the soap after it was poured, resulting in soap within the pipes. Both methods work extremely well, but I found the embeds were slightly easier to remove when the pipes were inserted first as shown here.
What You’ll Need:
White Base
1.7 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
1.7 oz. Cocoa Butter
8.3 oz. Coconut Oil
13.2 oz. Olive Oil
8.3 oz. Palm Oil
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
Silicone Liner for 5 lb. Wood Mold
PVC Pipes
Rainbow Embeds
1.3 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
1.3 oz. Cocoa Butter
6.5 oz. Coconut Oil
10.4 oz. Olive Oil
6.5 oz. Palm Oil
3.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
8.6 oz. Distilled Water
Merlot Sparkle Mica
Electric Bubblegum Colorant
Tangerine Wow! Colorant
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
Ultramarine Blue Pigment
Radiant Plum Colorant
1 oz. Blackberry Sage Cybilla Fragrance Oil
Optional: 6 Easy Pour Mixing and Measuring Containers
Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional step but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil).
MOLD PREP: Insert PVC pipes vertically into the mold. Position the pipes throughout the mold, allowing space between each pipe and the edges of the mold. The placement of the pipes will depend on the size of pipes being used. Use large rubber bands to stretch around the mold and over the pipes in order to hold them in place. Using the rubber bands will help the pipes stay in place once the soap is poured around the pipes.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3 tsp. sodium lactate.
THREE: Once the batter has reached a thin trace, add 1 oz. of the Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil and whisk in.
FOUR: Add all of the dispersed Titanium Dioxide and use a whisk to combine. If necessary, stick blend the soap for another few seconds to thicken to a light-medium trace. Thickening the soap slightly will help ensure the soap does not leak into the pipes when pouring into the mold.
FIVE: Slowly begin pouring the soap into the mold and around the pipes. Pour from different angles and areas in the mold to ensure the soap is evenly distributed.
TIP: Because the exact amount of soap will vary slightly depending on how large your pipes are and how many you used, have an extra mold on hand in case you have leftover soap.
SIX: Tap the mold gently on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap. Spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Let soap in the mold for 3-4 days before attempting to remove the pipes. The pipes should be fairly easy to pull up and out of the soap. If not, give them more time. If after four days the pipes are still difficult to remove, place the soap into the freezer for 3-4 hours. Remove from the freezer, and attempt to remove the pipes again after a few hours. Patience is key.
Create the Embeds
Once the pipes are removed from the soap, it’s time to make the colorful soap that will fill the holes! When preparing your oils to fill the negative space, it’s important to use the same oils and percentages as the original soap. Doing so will prevent the two batches of soap from pulling away from each other once cut.
The amount of soap needed to fill the negative space may be different from this tutorial, depending on how large your pipes are and how many you use. For this negative embed technique, it can be tricky to estimate how much soap will be needed to fill the holes. One way to estimate how much soap you will need is to wait until the base soap has fully hardened. Before removing the pipes, place the entire mold on a scale and push the tare button. Pour water into one of the pipes until level with the base soap. Record this amount, and pour the water out of the mold. This weight will be about how much soap it takes to fill up one hole. Multiply by how many pipes your soap contains. This amount will be about how much soap it will take to fill up all the negative embeds. To be on the safe side you may want to make a few extra ounces and have a small mold on hand for any extra. It’s better to have a little extra than not enough!
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
COLOR PREP: In separate containers, disperse 1 teaspoon of the Electric Bubblegum Colorant, Merlot Sparkle Mica, Tangerine Wow Colorant, Fizzy Lemonade Colorant, Chrome Green Oxide, Ultramarine Blue Oxide, and Radiant Plum Colorant into 1 tablespoon sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.
ONE: Melt and combine the cocoa butter, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 ° F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace.
TWO: Once the soap has leached a light trace, split the soap into six small containers. Each container will contain about 200 mL of soap. Whisk in dispersed colorants per container in the following amounts:
- Red: .5 teaspoon Electric Bubblegum + .75 teaspoon Merlot Sparkle Mica
- Orange: 1 teaspoon Tangerine Wow Colorant
- Yellow: 2 teaspoons Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
- Green: .5 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide
- Blue: 1 teaspoon Ultramarine Blue
- Purple: 1.5 teaspoons Radiant Plum Colorant
THREE: Once all the colorants are thoroughly mixed in, divide 1 oz. of Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil among the six containers (it’s okay to eyeball it!) and incorporate with a whisk.
FOUR: Begin pouring the soap into the holes in the order of red, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple. If the hole fills up before you can add all the colors that’s okay! Just continue the pattern in the next hole.
FIVE: Continue pouring all the colors until every hole is filled. Some of the negative embed space contained all six colors, while others contained only the warm hues or cool hues. When cut, both technique looks great!
SIX: Once all the holes are filled, spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Unmold after 3-4 days. When it’s time to cut, you can cut the loaf in the traditional way, but in order to achieve the results shown in the photos, the bars need to be cut horizontally. If you’re not sure how to cut bars horizontally, there’s a video for that here. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy!
Are you craving some color during this gloomy time of year? Keep your eyes on the blog; February is full of colorful projects coming soon!
- White Base
- 1.7 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
- 1.7 oz. Cocoa Butter
- 8.3 oz. Coconut Oil
- 13.2 oz. Olive Oil
- 8.25 oz. Palm Oil
- 4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
- 1 oz. Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil
- Titanium Dioxide
- 5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
- Silicone Line for 5 lb. Wood Mold
- CVC Pipes
- Rainbow Embeds
- 1.3 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
- 1.3 oz. Cocoa Butter
- 6.5 oz. Coconut Oil
- 10.4 oz. Olive Oil
- 6.5 oz. Palm Oil
- 3.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
- 8.6 oz. Distilled Water
- Merlot Sparkle Mica
- Electric Bubblegum Colorant
- Tangerine Wow! Colorant
- Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
- Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
- Ultramarine Blue Pigment
- Radiant Plum Colorant
- 1 oz. Blackberry Sage Cybilla Fragrance Oil
- Optional: 6 Easy Pour Mixing and Measuring Containers
- SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
- COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of Sunflower or Sweet Almond Oil (or any other liquid oil).
- MOLD PREP: Insert PVC pipes vertically into the mold. Position the pipes throughout the mold, allowing space between each pipe and the edges of the mold. The placement of the pipes will depend on the size of pipes being used. Use large rubber bands to stretch around the mold and over the pipes in order to hold them in place. Using the rubber bands will help the pipes stay in place once the soap is poured around the pipes.
- Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
- Melt and combine the coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3 tsp. sodium lactate.
- Once the batter has reached a light trace, add 1 oz. of the Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil and whisk in.
- Add all of the dispersed Titanium Dioxide and use a whisk to gently combine. If necessary, stick blend the soap for another few seconds to thicken to a light/medium trace. Thickening the soap slightly will help ensure the soap does not leak into the pipes when pouring into the mold.
- Slowly begin pouring the soap into the mold and around the pipes. Pour from different angles and areas in the mold to ensure the soap is evenly distributed in the mold.
- Tap the mold gently on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap. Spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Let soap in the mold for 3-4 days before attempting to remove the pipes. The pipes should be fairly easy to pull up and out of the soap. If not, give them more time. If after three to four days the pipes are still difficult to remove, place the soap into the freezer for 3-4 hours. Remove from the freezer, and attempt to remove the pipes again after a few hours. Patience is key.
- SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
- COLOR PREP: In separate containers, disperse 1 teaspoon of the Electric Bubblegum Colorant, Merlot Sparkle Mica, Tangerine Wow Colorant, Fizzy Lemonade Colorant, Chrome Green Oxide, Ultramarine Blue Oxide, and Radiant Plum Colorant into 1 tablespoon sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.
- Melt and combine the cocoa butter, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 ° F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace.
- Once the soap has leached a light trace, split the soap into six small containers. Each container will contain about 200 mL of soap. Whisk in dispersed colorants per container in the following amounts:.5 teaspoon Electric Bubblegum + .75 teaspoon Merlot Sparkle Mica, 1 teaspoon Tangerine Wow Colorant, 2 teaspoons Fizzy Lemonade, .5 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide, 1 teaspoon Ultramarine Blue, 1.5 teaspoons Radiant Plum Colorant
- Once all the colorants are thoroughly mixed in, divide 1 oz. of Blackberry Sage Fragrance Oil among the six containers (it’s okay to eyeball it!) and incorporate with a whisk.
- Begin pouring the soap into the holes in the order of red, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple. If the hole fills up before you can add all the colors that’s okay! Just continue the pattern in the next hole.
- Continue pouring all the colors until every hole is filled. Some of the negative embed space contained all six colors, while others contained only the warm hues or cool hues. When cut, both technique looks great!
- Once all the holes are filled, spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Unmold after 3-4 days. When it’s time to cut, you can cut the loaf in the traditional way, but in order to achieve the results shown in the photos, the bars need to be cut horizontally. If you’re not sure how to cut bars horizontally, there’s a video for that here. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy!
I just finished pouring the embeds. I seriously can’t wait to cut this! I think this is my personal best executed batch so far! ::squeeeeeeee::
Yay, so excited! Cutting this soap is so fun, you get to see all the rainbow colors! If you get a picture, we’d love to see it on our Facebook page. 🙂
Bramble Berry Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
What did you use to cut the shapes of the soap?
Hi Crownsford!
We used a sharp kitchen knife to cut the soap into bars, and our Soap Beveller/Shaver to shape the edges. We love the way bevelled soap looks. 🙂
Soap Beveller/Shaver: https://www.brambleberry.com/Soap-BevellerShaver-P4141.aspx
See how to use that tool in the 5 Tips to Create Professional Looking Soap post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/5-ways-professional-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
hi
pls wat can I do if there is high level of lye in my soap.thank you
expecting your reply
Hi Adex!
Oh no! I’ve definitely had that happen. If your soap is lye heavy, don’t throw it out! If it was made within 24 hours, you can use the Hot Process Hero method to cook the soap to a normal pH level: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/hot-process-hero-2/
You can also grate that soap up and turn it into laundry soap! Find out how in the Three DIY Laundry Soap Recipes: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/home-crafts/three-diy-laundry-soap-recipes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I really like the looks of this soap but when I made it the base was very yellow, even though I added a little extra titanium oxide. I am using Bramble Berry oils so I’m wondering what I am doing wrong. How do get White?
Hi Barb!
So glad you like the soap! The oils you use can affect the color of your soap. For instance, our olive oil is a natural product. That means the color will vary depending on factors like temperature, soil and moisture.
If you notice the olive oil is a little darker, you can add a bit more titanium dioxide to your batch to make it whiter. You can also decrease the amount of olive oil you use and add more neutral colored oils. For this recipe, you could increase the amount of sweet almond oil. It may also help to use deodorized cocoa butter, which has a more neutral color: https://www.brambleberry.com/Deodorized-Cocoa-Butter-P3199.aspx
If you do make a substitution, make sure to run it through the Lye Calculator again! 🙂
Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Titanium Dioxide: https://www.brambleberry.com/Titanium-Dioxide-Pigment-P4040.aspx
The semi-circle rainbow embeds did not stick to the base once I cut the soap. As shown in the referenced video, I cut the loaf into 2 1/4 inch sections. I then cut those sections horizontally into three bars of about 3/4 inch each. The bars in your picture look like they are thicker than 3/4 inch. So, I was wondering if I had cut my bars too thin. My bars are approximately 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 x 3/4 inch. Any suggestions as to how to get the embeds to stay in the base next time? Thanks.
Hi Teresa!
When making this soap, we noticed some of the embeds fell out if we cut the soap after only 1-2 days in the mold. It may help to let the soap sit a couple more days, up to 5-6. That way both the base and the circles have time to set up fully, which can help them stick together. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I was wondering if this would work if you poured the rainbow part at the same time as the base and just carefully removed the pipes? Kind of like when you remove dividers between different colored soaps to make a mantra swirl while both sides are liquid. I think it could work, I may try it! …just wondering if anyone else had opinions about it.
Hi Vicki!
We didn’t try that, so I’m not entirely sure! My worry is that the white soap may start to fall in on the rainbow soap, which may not give you nice even circles. If you do try it, let us know how it goes! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
That’s my thinking as well. Just make sure the main uncolored soap is at very thick trace – pudding – and it should hold up. Just pour the colored stuff at 120ish and let cool to room temp to firm up and then carefully remove the pipes. I’d also not use that thick PVC but the really thin stuff you can get at actual plumbing supply stores – they do carry it at places like the Home Despot but only in 12ft lengths which is ridiculous. And if overfill the pipes a teeny bit they should settle into place level with the rest of the soap.
Those are awesome tips Bambi, thanks for sharing! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just cut my soap tonight and the white was all crumbly? Any idea why? Try, try again….
Hi Nancy!
Oh darn – I’ve definitely had that happen to my soap before! Several factors can cause crumbly soap, including lye heaviness or extreme temperature changes.
To check for lye heaviness, tap that soap lightly on your tongue. If it “zaps” you, it is lye heavy. You can read about more methods for testing lye heaviness in this blog post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/test-ph-red-cabbage/
If it is lye heavy, don’t throw it out! You can use it as laundry soap. Learn how in the Three DIY Laundry Soap Recipes post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/home-crafts/three-diy-laundry-soap-recipes/
Temperature is another possibility. If soap gets very hot and is stored in a cold place, it can be crumbly. What temperature did you soap at? Also, where did you store your soap? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I soap between 110-120. Then, I put it downstairs in the cool to harden?? The embeds aren’t crumbly, I made some balls for a future project out of some of the bars that fell apart.
It doesn’t zap.
Hi Nancy!
Hmm, that’s interesting! How long was your soap in the mold before it was cut? Also, do you know the approximate temperature of your basement?
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
My basement is chilly, probably between 50-60 degrees. I had to wait a probably 4-5 days to cut it, is stayed soft for quite a while.
Hi Nancy!
Thanks so much for that information! Does the top of your soap have a white discoloration? If so, it can be soda ash, which can have a crumbly texture. Soda ash forms when unsaponified lye reacts with naturally occurring carbon dioxide in the air. The good news is the soap is still usable. Also, you can get rid of the soda ash!
To do so, rub it with a nylon and some cold water. A steamer works really great as well. To get more tips on preventing soda ash, check out this blog post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/explaining-and-preventing-soda-ash/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just tried making this soap last night. I looked at it this morning and to my dismay, the writing on the pvc has bled into my soap. I am disgusted! Have you experienced this? I will have to dump it and try again. We have to figure out a way to remove the factory writing from the pvc pipe.
Hi Linda!
Oh no! With our recipe, we didn’t experience any bleeding from the PVC pipes. It may help to wrap the pipes in plastic wrap before pouring your soap. That should help prevent the bleeding. It can also help the pipes release more easily! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I removed the writing with automotive choke cleaner, which contains acetone.
Thanks for that great idea Teresa! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Writing on the pipe can be removed several ways…. Using a Acetone based nail polish remover works as does acetone itself. Any PVC pipe cleaner found at a local box store also works. Do so quickly and in a well vented area.
Thanks for the great tips! I would recommend a small test batch with a clean pipe to make sure there are no reaction with the soap. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
While I don’t have PVC- I do have a bunch of cylinder glass bud vases…… Do you think they would work to creat the negative space in the soap?
Hi DJ!
We didn’t try this recipe with glass pipes, but I believe that would work just fine! I would recommend wiping the pipes with mineral oil or cyclomethicone before pouring your soap. That will help them release easily. A small test batch would be helpful as well. 🙂
Cyclomethicone: https://www.brambleberry.com/Cyclomethicone-P4560.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Cool! Looks fun to make! Thanks for this blog.
Hi Michelle!
So happy you like the recipe Michelle! It’s a blast to make. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Made this soap yesterday and was able to take the pipes out , easily, today using a pair of vice grips. I did not use sodium lactate, but I did “grease” the pipes with mineral oil. Great recipe! Thanks Soaqueen!
Hi Jill!
That’s a great tip, thanks so much for sharing! Rubbing the pipes with a little bit of mineral oil or cyclomethicone will help them slide out easily. 🙂
Cyclomethicone: https://www.brambleberry.com/Cyclomethicone-P4560.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Do you think this would work with melt and pour white base and colorants?
Hi Samantha!
We love this look for cold process, but it may be difficult to get in melt and pour. Melt and pour is very firm, so removing the pipes may be difficult. You may be able to get the negative space embed look by cutting pieces out of the melt and pour after it’s hardened.
You can use our silicone column molds to get a fun embedded look though! To use those, pour your melt and pour soap in and let it harden. Then, pour a thin layer of melt and pour into your mold. Let that harden, spray that layer and the embeds with alcohol and place them on top. 🙂
You can see that technique in our Rainbow Hearts Melt and Pour Tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/melt-and-pour-soap/rainbow-hearts-melt-pour/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Mini Round Silicone Column Mold: https://www.brambleberry.com/Mini-Round-Silicone-Column-Mold-P5810.aspx
Sunday Night Spotlight: 99% Isopropyl Alcohol: http://www.soapqueen.com/?s=alcohol
what size pic pipe did you use? Looks fun!
Hi Keith!
This soap was a lot of fun to make! The pipes we used were about 5 inches long and 1 3/4 inches wide. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I agree, I’ll have to try this too. I can imagine all sorts of possiblities with color and shapes.
Hi Michael!
That’s awesome, glad you like the soap! This technique would look amazing with all sorts of variations. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
What a fun soap! You really do make it look easy. I may have to try this negative space technique really soon. Love all the vibrant colors. Just need a unicorn and I’m transported back to when I was 9!
Hi Kelly!
So happy you like the soap! We are definitely rainbow and unicorn fans around here. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Oh, that’s awesome! I’m going to have to try that.
Hi Bobbie!
So glad you like the soap! Have fun making it. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry