Tutorial: Fiery Energy Bar

When I got this 3-D mold, I was so excited to try it out! The calligraphy is beautiful and since it already said “Energy” then I could use one of my favorite Bramble Berry scents named Energy, too. The fragrance is so bright and refreshing that it inspired me to use fiery colors, and what better way to show off that gorgeous lettering than to play with the melt and pour tool kit again!

I think you will really enjoy making this project. It’s actually quite easy but will leave many people wondering, “How’d you do that?” It’ll be our little secret. 😉


Kanji Energy 3-D Mold, with or without contoured back
1/2 lb clear melt and pour soap base
Ultramarine Blue Oxide
Yellow Mica
Red Mica
Energy Fragrance Oil
Melt and Pour Tool Kit

1) Melt 1 ounce of clear soap and color darkly with a pinch of blue oxide dissolved in a little rubbing alcohol or fragrance oil. Using the injector tool from the tool kit, fill the lettering with blue soap. Allow to set. (Refer to Cupcake Soap Tutorial for more detail on using the injector tool)
2) Melt 3 ounces of clear soap. Color with a pinch of yellow mica dissolved in alcohol or fragrance oil. Allow to cool to 120 degrees.
3) Spray lettering with rubbing alcohol and quickly assemble the mold, using the rubber bands, and stand upright on table. Fill mold 1/2 way with yellow soap.
4) Repeat step 2, but use red mica. The soap will turn orange, not red. Add 1/8 teaspoon of fragrance oil. Carefully fill mold with orange soap. Spray surface with alcohol to pop any bubbles.
5) Take your skewer and stick it down into the mold, blending the yellow and orange layers. Allow soap to set for a few hours.
6) Unmold soap. Use a knife to trim any rough edges or overfill.

This is a fun way to use bleeding colors to your advantage. The blended area will look even prettier after a little while as the orange bleeds into the yellow.

These 3-D molds are really neat to use and come in many styles. You will love how professional your soaps will look!

-Debbie, Soapylove


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  1. Paula Kates says


    I LOVE your sense of color. I tend to lean toward earth tones but what you do with vibrant colors I would love to be able to do.

    Your fan!

  2. Anne-Marie says

    Most micas do not bleed but if they are coated with bleeding FD&C colors, they will bleed a bit. Not many micas are coated with FD&Cs though so the majority of them do not bleed as a rule.

  3. Teresa R says

    Thanks, Debbie! I didn’t realize there were bleeding micas. I thought that the advantage to micas was that they don’t bleed. Obviously I have a LOT to learn still. :)

  4. Soapylove says

    Hi Teresa-
    actually I used bleeding micas for this project, which will still look pretty after a couple of weeks because the colors are supposed to fade into eachother.

    But now I’m curious about doing one with Labcolors! So I’ll make one and post a link to the pic when it’s ready.

  5. Teresa R says

    Very interesting! So it’ll look funky with bleeding colors, but you used the micas instead here. If you ever do one with bleeding colors instead of micas, can you please post to show us? I’d like to see both side-by-side for a comparison of the properties of each. :) Thanks, Debbie!

  6. Armi says

    Another cool tutorial, Debbie! I’ll have to try this one out on my next day off! :)

    Anne-Marie, I wish I waited to buy the clear mold, it’s easier to see the soap before unmolding. Oh well, waste not, want not.

  7. Anne-Marie says

    They just started doing some of them in clear and it’s awesome! I love ’em in the clear plastic.

    It’s a slightly more flexible plastic, definitely not as brittle as the white plastic.

  8. egassner says

    How very cool that they are CLEAR! When did they start doing that! Lol
    Looks great Debbie, I love reading your tutorials!